[Akita, Iwate, Aomori (Northern Tohoku, Japan) = Text and Photos by E-Daily Kang Gyeong-rok, Travel Reporter] In Northern Tohoku, the pace of travel naturally slows down. For travelers weary of the dazzling neon signs and surging crowds of Tokyo or Osaka, Northern Tohoku—at the northern tip of Honshu—feels like the last hidden haven of tranquility. Home to massive mountain ranges and primeval forests, this is a tranquil land where you can step away from journeys spent frantically searching for and filling your time with activities, gently set your weary mind at rest, and immerse yourself in relaxation. As a result, Northern Tohoku remains relatively unknown to Korean travelers. This is because the attractions are scattered deep within the mountains, requiring travelers to plan their itineraries with great care. However, it is precisely this seclusion that has preserved the region’s pristine natural landscapes, time-honored history, and a culture that has long comforted human lives. Perhaps that is why the hot springs here served as places where people, having endured harsh cold and rugged terrain, could find solace and healing.

◇ “Ryumontei Chiba Ryokan”: A Traditional Ryokan Founded by a Retired Samurai
My first stop after arriving at Aomori Airport was the historic castle town of Hirosaki. Hirosaki Castle was completed in 1611, but its original castle tower was destroyed by a lightning strike in 1627. The three-story wooden main tower that stands today was rebuilt in 1810, some 200 years later. It is one of the “12 surviving main towers” in Japan. A neat, tranquil atmosphere pervades the Bukeyashiki district, where the former residences of samurai surrounding the castle still stand. The story of how this tranquil city became a mecca for apples dates back some 150 years to the time of the Meiji Restoration. In the Meiji era, apple cultivation was encouraged as a new industry for former samurai who had lost their livelihoods. Former officials of the Hirosaki Domain also participated in growing and distributing apples, and the apples that took root in this way have become the crop that best represents Aomori today.
After taking in the city center, where Western-style buildings from the Meiji era—such as the former Hirosaki City Library with its red roof and the former Aomori Bank headquarters—blend harmoniously, we set off for Oyu Onsen in Kazuno City, Akita Prefecture.

Nestled along the Oyu River to the south of Lake Towada, Oyu Onsen is one of Tohoku’s historic “Koto” (ancient hot springs). It was used as a bathing retreat by the lords of the former Nanbu Domain and has long been a place where travelers stopped to rest and wash away their fatigue.
One establishment that has stood the test of time in this hot spring village is the “Ryumontei Chiba Ryokan,” a traditional inn that carries on the legacy of the samurai. Upon entering the main gate, you are greeted by wooden floorboards polished to a glossy sheen by years of footsteps and care. With every careful step, the floor creaks—a sound that feels as fresh and heartwarming as visiting a rural relative’s home.

In the evening, “kaiseki”—a Japanese multi-course meal where dishes made with seasonal ingredients are served one by one—is served. From Akita beef steamed with the aroma of hinoki cypress to golden-brown grilled sweetfish and apple gratin, ingredients sourced from the region’s mountains and fields are presented one after another. Among these, “dobinmushi”—a dish of matsutake mushrooms and seafood steamed in a small teapot with clear broth—is particularly appetizing. The moment you lift the lid, the aroma of matsutake fills the air, and a sip of the warm broth gently warms the body chilled from the journey.
As night deepens, the true charm of Chiba Ryokan is revealed when the baths—which were separated by gender during the day—switch places. I move back and forth between the stone bath (seokjo-tang), where pine trees and natural rocks seem close enough to touch, and the hinoki bath, where the subtle scent of cypress wood gently envelops me. When the clear, smooth hot spring water envelops my shoulders—replacing the acrid scent of sulfur—all I can hear is the sound of water cascading down the bamboo pipes in the garden and my own labored breathing. In this historic house steeped in the legacy of ancient samurai, the stillness of the night is finally complete.

◇“Goshogake,” a sulfur hell nestled within rugged, untamed mountains
The next morning, I head for the foothills of Mt. Hachimantai, located at an elevation of 1,000 meters. The true charm of hiking Mt. Hachimantai lies in the serene trek along its ridgeline. After climbing for about 20 minutes along the trail near the summit, you’ll come across “Kagaminuma” (Mirror Pond), a crater lake. In late spring, as the remaining snow melts, the blue water pools in a doughnut shape, taking on the form of a giant eye—a spectacular sight known as the “Dragon’s Eye.”
Unfortunately, on this trip, we had to turn back on the path to the summit due to heavy rain and strong winds that engulfed the mountain. Leaving behind the summit scenery that nature ultimately denied us, we headed down the Goshogake Nature Trail, where the heat from hot springs and sulfur fumes rise from the mountain ridges below.
Located at the trailhead, Goshogake Onsen reveals the untamed wildness of the land—a stark contrast to the tranquil hot springs found in quiet rural villages. As we stepped onto the trail, Mount Danni, with its bubbling mud deposits, and Oyunuma, shrouded in sulfuric steam, unfolded before our eyes. This place, with a history spanning over 300 years, is home to an old saying: “You enter on horseback and leave on wooden clogs.” This expression conveys the idea that even those who arrived on horseback due to poor health would feel well enough to walk back after soaking in the hot springs here.
The legends behind the place names “Oname” and “Motome” are also quite poignant. Legend has it that a woman who cared for a sick man and his wife, who had traveled a long distance to find him, both threw themselves into a seething hot spring swamp for each other’s sake. Standing before the two vents amid sulfur fumes—a scene that could easily be called “hell”—the tragic stories of these people from the past, trapped in the shackles of life, weigh heavily on the heart.
There are also various ways to experience the heat of the sulfur springs firsthand. Representative examples include “hakomushi,” where you slip into a wooden box with only your face peeking out to enjoy a steam bath, and “mud baths,” which utilize thick mud. After stepping out of the bath and lying down on an ondol—a traditional underfloor heating system warmed by natural geothermal heat—you can feel the geothermal heat radiating directly through your back.

◇The “Green Reservoir” Gushes Forth as It Meets the Earth’s Heat
Dragging my weary body, I set out along the tranquil forest path of Appi Highlands in Iwate Prefecture. Stretching at an elevation of around 800 meters, this forest carries a history of being logged for charcoal production. Over time, beech trees have reclaimed this forest once exploited by humans. As I walk along the path of soft fallen leaves and earth, I feel the soft texture of the soil beneath my feet. The beech forest absorbs snow and rain before slowly releasing it, earning it the nickname “Green Dam.”
Api Resort’s signature attraction, “Shirakaba-no-Yu” (Birch Bath), is an open-air hot spring where you can enjoy the waters while gazing out at the birch forest. When you immerse yourself in the bath surrounded by white birch trees, the slightly alkaline hot spring water gently envelops your skin. During the day, the sound of the wind rustles through the birch branches reaching toward the sky. Soaking in hot water while gazing at the forest after a hike in the mountains is another way to enjoy the hot springs of Northern Tohoku.

After filling our hearts with the serene tranquility of the highlands, we head to Misawa, Aomori Prefecture, for the finale of our journey. Our destination is “Aomoriya by Hoshino Resorts.” Set on a site spanning approximately 220,000 pyeong, this accommodation offers a modern take on Aomori’s traditional culture and hot spring traditions.
The highlight here is the open-air bath “Ukiyu,” which appears to float right in the middle of a pond. Since the boundary between the water’s surface and the bath is seamless, it offers a sense of openness, as if you were bathing while floating on the water. The contrasting temperatures—the cool northern night breeze brushing against your forehead and the hot spring water enveloping your shoulders—meet on your skin. As the night deepens, the lights of the Nebuta decorations above the pond are reflected on the water’s surface.
As the night deepens, the “Michinoku Matsuriya” performance—a celebration that brings together Aomori’s festival culture—takes the stage. Nebuta lanterns fill the stage, and the sound of large drums resonates throughout the venue. Dancers shout “Rassera, Rassera!” to heighten the excitement. This is a chant unique to the Nebuta Festival, roughly equivalent to the Korean “Eol-su, Eol-su!” As the powerful drumbeats blend with the energetic chants, the audience is soon swept up in the rhythm of the festival. As the performance ends and the drumbeats fade, the quiet night of the North returns. Only then do the past few days—spent among hot spring waters, cool breezes, forest trails, and the scent of sulfur—slowly come to mind. Perhaps it’s because I’ve grown accustomed to walking slowly in Northern Tohoku. Even as the time to return approaches, my steps refuse to quicken.

◇Travel Notes
▲Getting There = The days of the week and number of flights for direct flights between Incheon and Aomori vary by season. It’s best to check the airline’s latest flight schedule before departure.
▲Major Accommodations
- Ryumontei Chiba Ryokan (Akita Oyu Onsen) = A traditional inn with a history dating back to the samurai era. The charming Japanese-style garden visible from the guest rooms adds to the tranquil atmosphere, and guests can enjoy seasonal cuisine alongside the hot springs.
- Appi Resort (Appi Highlands, Iwate) = A highland resort where you can enjoy various outdoor leisure activities, such as hiking through beech forests and golf. It features the “Shirakaba-no-Yu” open-air bath nestled in a birch forest.
-Aomoriya by Hoshino Resorts (Misawa, Aomori)=A resort that incorporates unique Aomori cultural experiences. It features the “Michinoku Matsuriya” performance, as well as a pond garden and the “Ukiyu” open-air bath.
▲Reporting assistance provided by the Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO)